8. Engine - frequently asked questions about engine care
Coming soon in early 2009...
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1.1. How often should I wash my car? Is washing my car more than 2 times a week okay? What I´ve read on the internet is washing too often can cause potential scratching and swirl-marks on my paint finish?
In most circumstances, if your car is used as a daily driver, then washing it once a week should be sufficient to enable you to stay on top of the dirt and grime and keep it looking good most of the time. If you choose to wash your car more frequently than this, you run the risk of accumulating paint defects (scratches, swirl marks and micro marring more quickly than normal. This is because the vast majority of common paint defects such as swirl marks and deeper random scratches (RIDS) are caused during the wash process, as a result of dirt and grime being moved around the surface. By using appropriate Gloss-it products and techniques this risk can be minimized, but never completely eliminated. Therefore, the frequency at which you choose to wash your car will determine the frequency at which the bodywork will acquire paint defects or imperfections. Gloss-it recommends washing your car once a week in most good climates but no more than 2 times a week in cold and snowy climates. By following this Gloss-it program will ensure and cut down on future paint imperfection.
1.2. I wash my car once a month, and in between washes it generally acquires a lot of dirt and grime. What can I do to minimize scratching in the wash process?
Once your car has accumulated a substantial layer of dirt and grime, there is a greater risk of causing paint defects during the wash process. This is caused by a greater number of contaminants existing that may unintentionally be moved around over underlying surfaces as they are removed, and the tendency to scrub the paint more to get it clean. A simple approach that can minimize the risk is to rinse off as much dirt and grime as possible using a hose or a pressure washer before washing the exterior finish by hand. Five to ten minutes of pre- rinsing off the exterior is time well spent, but may not always reduce potential scratching, but will significantly reduce paint defects. One more step and or pre caution can be taken to remove two to three weeks worth of dirt and grime with the use of a pre-wash foaming solution, this will help the friction of the grime & dirt from damaging the finish.
The idea behind applying a Gloss Shampoo to the car in the form of thick clinging foam before washing is simple, and the benefits are clear. If you apply a ample coating of soap suds to dirty surfaces and allow them to cling and sit for five minutes or more, the emulsifiers and cleaning agents have more time to breakdown, dissolve and suspend a lot more dirt and grime. Once the suds are rinsed off, much of the dirt and grime is simply removed with it, leaving relatively clean surfaces behind ready for a two bucket wash by hand. The major advantage and benefit here is that the bulk of grime removal is done before a wash mitt is placed on the car, which greatly reduces the chances of inflicting paint defects during the later hand washing process.
Another technique that will help assist further in which you can make the later hand washing process much safer is to reapply a thick layer of foam to each panel ahead of wiping it clean with a Gloss-it Foam wash mitt, as this ensures highest lubrication as the Foam mitt moves over underlying surfaces. This technique is in the Gloss-it wash routine, and we believe it significantly helps to minimize the risk of causing defects, particularly during the winter months when heavy amounts of dirt and grime are unavoidable.
1.3 I would like to start using foam to remove a lot of dirt and grime before I hand wash my car, but can I use any other over the counter products like dish detergent or generic car soap?
Normal car shampoos can be used to produce foam with a reasonable amount of success. In our opinion, the best of these products is our Gloss Shampoo, as it can produce a reasonable amount of foam at an unbelievable dilution ratio of 200:1 (water to shampoo). A further key benefit when using Gloss Shampoo Wash is that it will not strip wax or sealant protection, unlike some other snow foam style products currently on the market. Gloss Shampoo contains a specific Gloss Enhancing Lubricant and polymer that will not just clean dirt and grime but will also add to the gloss and durability of the existing wax or final Gloss Finish LSP´s.
1.4. I own a dark color car, and no matter how carefully I dry the paint after washing, I still seem to be marring the finish? Is there a safer way to dry my car?
Some modern paint finishes are more prone to scratching and marring no matter how carefully they are treated, and drying them off after washing poses two potential problems. Firstly, there is always the danger when working outside fresh airborne contaminants may settle on the car after rinsing off. Wiping the car dry with a regular cotton drying towel can then result in these contaminants causing marring as they are trapped by the towel and then drawn across underlying surfaces. Secondly, as paint is dried off, all lubrication is effectively removed, meaning that the friction between the towel and the paint increases. This in itself can be enough to cause marring in some modern paint finishes.
The solution to both problems mentioned above is to cut out hard wiping of the paint. It is possible to pat dry a car using a Gloss-it micro fiber drying towel in only a little more time than that required to wipe it dry. By not wiping, any fresh contaminants are not moved around over the paint, and towel friction is reduced to a minimum. A further option that cuts towel contact out completely is to use an air blower to dry the car off. Dedicated vehicle dryers and domestic leaf blowers work extremely well in this respect, and this is a method we have adopted into our own Gloss-it wash routines, as we believe it significantly helps to reduce the risk of inflicting defects during the drying process.
1.5. I have a dark coloured car, and no matter how carefully I dry the paint after washing, I still seem to be marring the finish? Is there a safer way to dry my car?
Some modern paint finishes seem to be highly susceptible to marring no matter how carefully they are treated, and drying them off after washing poses two key problems. Firstly, there is always the danger when working outside that fresh airborne contaminants may settle on the car after rinsing off. Wiping the car dry with a microfibre drying towel can then result in these contaminants causing marring as they are trapped by the towel and then drawn across underlying surfaces. Secondly, as paint is dried off, all lubrication is effectively removed, meaning that the friction between the towel and the paint increases. This in itself can be enough to cause marring in some modern paint finishes.
The solution to both problems outlined above is to cut out any wiping of the paint. It is possible to pat dry a car using a microfibre drying towel in only a little more time than that required to wipe it dry. By not wiping, any fresh contaminants are not moved around over the paint, and towel friction is reduced to a minimum. A further option that cuts towel contact out completely is to use an air blower to dry the car off. Dedicated vehicle dryers and domestic leaf blowers work extremely well in this respect, and this is a method we have adopted into our own wash routines, as we believe it significantly helps to reduce the risk of inflicting defects during the drying process.
2.1. After washing my car, the bodywork appears to be perfectly clean, but when I run my hand over the paint it feels bumpy or rough in different sections. What might be causing this, and what can I do about it?
Surface roughness is usually caused by bonded surface contaminants; your fingertips are very sensitive to changes in surface texture, and can detect very subtle differences that often go unseen (to enhance this effect, firstly place your hand inside a thin plastic bag, and then run your fingertips gently over your paint). Unseen bonded surface contaminants typically comprise inorganic particulates derived from industrial and commercial activities; industrial fallout, brake dust, railway dust, paint overspray and exhaust soot can all bond to paint both physically (by charge attraction) and chemically (by electrolysis). As such contaminants gradually accumulate on bodywork, surface roughness gradually increases to the point where it can be detected, and the reflectivity of the finish and the ability of the paint to sheet water properly diminishes. Furthermore, as such particulates slowly oxidize and corrode, etching and discoloration of underlying painted surfaces can occur. For maintain a great finish it is important that such contaminants are periodically removed, and the safest way to do this is by using a Gloss-it mild clay bar, Gloss Enhancer Quick and Gloss-it Ultra Plush Micro fiber towel. For more detailed information about clay bars, and how to use them safely and effectively to remove bonded surface contaminants, please read our car care guide entitled "How to clean your paint in preparation for polishing or protection".
2.2. After washing my car, the bodywork still appears to be dirty, as I can see hundreds of tiny dark color spots stuck to the paint. What might be causing this, and what can I do about it?
Embedded surface contaminants that are visible to the eye and persist regardless of normal washing on a regular basis in general consist of organic compounds such as tar, rail dust and bug splatter. Tar spots are perhaps the most common and annoying organic contaminant, and are accumulated all year round from freshly paved roads.
Honeydew (often mistaken for tree sap) can be an irritation in the summer months, when it literally rains down from tree canopies as a result of high levels of insect activity. Bug spray is also a common problem in the summer months, and seemingly attaches itself to the front end of most vehicles, no matter how slick and well protected the paint is. As many contaminants gradually amass on bodywork, not only do the visual qualities of the finish rapidly get worse, but so too does the capacity of the paint to sheet water properly. Not only can bug splatter cause etching and staining of primary painted surfaces, due to the acidic effects of the organic contaminates found in bug residue. Yes, it is important that such contaminants are frequently removed, and the safest way to do this is by using Gloss Enhancer and either the Mild Green clay bar or for stubborn contaminates the Gloss-it Aggressive clay bar.
2.3. I am about to take delivery of a brand new car. Before I polish and protect the paint, do I need to use a clay bay?
In our experience it´s not common for a brand new car to be in perfect condition, the truth is that many brand new cars are delivered with a considerable amount of bonded surface contamination already present on the bodywork. Much of this contamination is usually inorganic in nature, and is typically derived from railway dust and industrial fallout landing on the car during transport between the factory and the dealership. The only way to confirm whether such contamination is present on your new car is to trust your fingertips; take delivery of the car, wash it carefully at home and then run your fingertips carefully over the wet panels (to increase their sensitivity, place your hand inside a thin plastic bag first). If you can feel any kind of surface roughness whatsoever, then bonded surface contaminants are present, and the paint should be treated with a clay bar before being polished and protected.
3.1. I always wash my car very carefully, yet over time I have noticed that swirl marks have appeared on most of the panels when the sun shines directly on them. Am I doing something wrong, or are swirl marks unavoidable on modern paint finishes?
The great majority of common underlying paint imperfections such as swirl marks and deeper random (RIDS) scratches are caused during the wash process, as a result of dirt and grime being moved around over painted surfaces. By using appropriate Gloss-it products and techniques this risk can be reduced, but never completely eliminated. Therefore, over time, all cars will gradually acquire minor paint imperfections that, if left unchecked, will eventually escalate to the look of swirl marks & towel scratches in direct sun light. In our experience , minor paint imperfection should only need to be removed by light polishing once or twice a year in order to maintain a swirl-free finish, providing that routine washing is only done once a week or so using Gloss-it recommend wash and dry products and proper technique are used. If swirl marks are appearing on your car at a quicker rate than this, it is likely that something is missing in your wash method. In this case, it is important to carefully review what you´re doing, and make appropriate changes that reduce the amount of contact you have with your paint. Gloss-it car enthusiast and professional detailers at our tech class demonstration are often surprised at how lightly we treat paint when washing cars; Gloss-it wash mitts need to be moved across paint slowly and with minimum pressure if potential paint imperfections are to be avoided. Remember; Take your time don´t RUSH!
3.2. I always wash my paint in straight lines, yet the swirl marks I can see when the sun shines on the car are circular, and this seems to be the case for all cars. Why is this?
The reason why swirl marks appear to be circular when viewed in the sun, or under any other form of point source lighting for that matter, is that the sharp edges of the sub-surface defects present in the paint are catching and reflecting light radiated outward in all directions from a single central point. If you look at the same surface under a highly diffuse source of lighting, you will actually discover that the sub-surface paint defects comprise very fine scratches running randomly in all directions - they just appear to be circular when viewed under any form of point source lighting for the reason given above.
3.3. How often should I polish my paint? I like to polish my car every week, but some of my friends have told me this is too often and that I risk damaging the paint?
In our experience, minor paint imperfections should only need to be removed by light polishing ( Evolution Polish or Evolution Cut ) once or twice a year in order to maintain a high gloss swirl-free finish, providing that routine washing is only done once a week or so using appropriate Gloss-it products and techniques. If swirl marks and other paint defects are appearing at a faster rate than this, requring more frequent corrective polishing, it is likely that something is missing with your wash and dry method, and this should be carefully reviewed. If, on the other hand, your paint remains swirl-free and in excellent condition for the most part, and you polish it frequently out of habit rather than necessity, you run the risk of premature paint system failure. This is because polishing typically removes a small amount of the uppermost protective layer of paint (usually the clear-coat in modern paint systems), and over the lifetime of the car only a limited amount of this layer (usually around 25%) can be safely removed without compromising the integrity and longevity of the paint system as a whole. Removing 0.1% of the total thickness of the clear-coat on a weekly basis may seem insignificant until you realize that this equates to 5.2% of the total thickness of the clear-coat per year!
Of course, if you are using a pure non-abrasive polish (i.e. Gloss Finish, Concorso Gloss or Gloss Enahancer quick detailer) on a regular basis then the above argument does not hold, as final LSP finish or Quick Detailer do not remove any paint. However the same goes for adding multiple layers of wax or sealant protection; layering either type of last step product can yield noticeable improvements to the appearance of the finish, but this benefit should be balanced against the risk of causing marring by overworking the paint. Topping with Gloss Finish or Concorso Gloss protection no more than once a month or so is a good compromise in our experience
3.4. I want to polish my paint to remove obvious sub-surface defects, but my friends have told me that paint hardness varies a lot between different makes of car, and that I need to choose a polish suited to my paint type. Is this true, and if so, how do I determine how hard my paint is, and what polish to use?
It is true that paint hardness does indeed vary significantly between different makes of car, and also in some cases between different ages of the same make and model of car. In the case of the former, this reflects a market structure in which just three major paint manufacturers (BASF, Dupont and PPG) offering significantly differing ranges of paint products are continually competing for OEM supply contracts with major car manufacturers. In the case of the latter, this reflects industry wide changes brought about by either legislation concerning what can and cannot be used in automotive paints or technological advances concerning the properties of automotive paints; in recent years, the switch from solvent-based to water-based paints on vehicle production lines and the uptake of ceramic nano-particle clear-coat technologies are good examples of this. A further compounding factor to the understanding of paint hardness occurs in cases where vehicles have been partially or wholly repainted, as body shops use different paint systems to those originally applied in the factory, and these may have significantly different properties. What all of this means for car care enthusiasts wanting to polish their paint is that due thought and consideration should be given to choosing a polish and pad combination best suited to the task in hand, as paint hardness does vary considerably from car to car and, in some cases, from panel to panel! This being the case, the key questions remain; how do you determine how hard paint is, and what polish and pad to use?
As is often the case in industries where a degree of secrecy exists with regard to OEM supply contracts, there is no reliable data source available that identifies which paint types are used on which factory production lines; this applies to the past and the present day, and will probably be the case in the future too. However, even if such technical data were freely available, it would in all probability be meaningless to car care enthusiasts, as it would probably not identify paint hardness per se as a characteristic, or report on commercial polish suitability. Thus, the answers to both questions can only really be provided by real world hands-on experience of polishing many different paint types using many different commercially available polishes and polishing pads. Indeed, this is exactly how we have acquired our own in-depth knowledge of paint types and how best to polish them, and we are happy to share our experience so that our customers may benefit and achieve excellent results safely and effectively without wasting time or risking paint damage through trial and error. Accordingly, what follows below is a brief overview of our knowledge concerning typical paint hardness on USA, Europe & UK specification cars, along with a reference table in the form of a pdf document that will enable you to quickly look up how hard the original paint on your car is likely to be. Once you have determined how hard your paint is likely to be, the rest of the questions in this section will then help you to choose the polish and pad combination from the polishing guide on www.glossitonline.com best suited to the task in hand.
Paint hardness (or more properly clear-coat hardness in the case of most modern paint systems) can be readily divided into three categories; soft, intermediate and hard. Soft paint is usually found on Japanese cars, some Italian cars, and, more recently, on most US Audi models (especially the A series range). Light to moderate sub-surface defects in soft paint are typically quite easy to correct by hand or machine in a single step using either a high quality light cutting polish ( Evolution Polish or One Step Machine Gloss. Proper care must always be taken to limit the paint removal rate, as total paint thickness is usually relatively low (typical range 4 to 7 mils), particularly on the leading edges of major panels. Soft paint is also highly susceptible to micro-marring, which is the technical term for fresh sub-surface defects caused during the polishing process as unbroken down abrasive particles are continually moved around at the interface between the pad and the paint, leaving a feint pattern of very tightly defined swirl marks. Severe micro-marring can be difficult to correct, and for this reason we recommend that soft paint is only ever polished using products containing fragile abrasives with light to moderate cut levels that breakdown easily, along with relatively soft Gloss-it Blue or Ultra Red soft 100ppi foam pads in order to limit the overall level of cut.
Paints of intermediate hardness are most common on US and UK specification cars, and typically require a two stage machine polishing process involving light compounding followed by a refining step with a high quality finishing polish if light to moderate defects are to be fully corrected. Total paint thickness on intermediate paint types is usually greater (5 to 7 mils )than on cars featuring soft paint, meaning that greater rates of paint removal can be safely tolerated if required. When working on paints of intermediate hardness, the risk of causing micro-marring is usually much lower, due to the greater surface resistance of the paint encouraging full and proper breakdown of abrasive particles during the polishing process. In general, we recommend that paints of intermediate hardness are polished by Cyclo Polisher or 7424 Porter Cable Polisher machine using Extreme Cut for deeper paint imperfections and or Evolution Cut which both contains self diminishing abrasives with light to moderate cut levels that breakdown relatively easily, along with Gloss-it foam Orange cutting or Yellow Light cut pads in order to increase the overall level of cut. As a general rule of thumb, most repaint that is chemically cured and baked in a body shop booth at 70 to 80 degree´s will also be intermediate in terms of hardness, and should be polished in the same way.
Hard paint is usually found exclusively on German cars and tends to be difficult to correct, even if the defects present are relatively light. In recent years, the uptake of ceramic nano-particle clear-coat technologies by many German car manufacturers has resulted in the paint on these cars becoming even harder and thus even more difficult to correct. Total paint thickness on hard paint types is usually greater (typical range 5 to 9 mils) than on cars featuring intermediate or soft paint, meaning that greater rates of paint removal can be safely tolerated if required. In all cases, a two stage machine polishing process involving light cut polishing ( Extreme cut or Evolution cut) followed by a refining step (Evolution Polish or One Step Machine Gloss) with a high quality Gloss-it finishing polish will be required if light to moderate defects are to be fully corrected. We recommend that hard paints are polished using Gloss-it Extreme Cut with robust abrasives with light to moderate cut levels that breakdown relatively easily, along with Gloss-it Orange cutting foam pads in order to increase the overall level of cut. If defects persist, continue to repeat beginning cutting step. For further assistance please select instructional video page for step by step instruction.
3.5. My car has soft paint, and I want to polish it by hand to remove paint imperfections. What products and pads are best suited to this task??
To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend a two stage process starting with Evolution cut in conjunction with 3 inch Gloss-it Blue polishing foam pad and Evolution polish. Working small areas with overlapping motion work polish using firm pressure until product is no longer visible. This should enable you to correct around 90% of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. Any remaining defects should then be partially hidden and the overall finish refined with Concorso Gloss in conjunction with Gloss-it Red 100ppi red foam sponge. Working small areas at a time using light pressure should enable you to remove any residual defects and maximize the gloss in just a single attempt per panel. You should be aware from the outset that although this method will produce excellent results, it will require a substantial amount of hard work!
3.6. My car has intermediate paint, and I want to polish it by hand to remove obvious sub-surface defects. What products and pads are best suited to this task?
To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend a two stage process starting with Evolution cut in conjunction with 3 inch Gloss-it Yellow Light cut foam pad and One Step Machine Gloss or Evolution Cut. Working small areas with overlapping motion work polish using firm pressure until product is no longer visible. This should enable you to correct around 80% of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. Any remaining defects should then be partially hidden and the overall finish refined with Evolution Polish in conjunction with Gloss-it Red 100ppi red foam sponge. Working small areas at a time using light pressure should enable you to remove any residual defects and maximize the gloss in just a single attempt per panel. If heavier glazing is required, then recourse can be made to applying multiple coats of Gloss Finish instead of Evolution Polish, although the former is harder to work with than the latter. You should be aware from the outset that although this method will produce excellent results, it will require a substantial amount of hard work!
3.7. My car has hard paint, and I want to polish it by hand to remove obvious sub-surface defects. What products and pads are best suited to this task?
To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend a two stage process starting with Evolution cut in conjunction with 3 inch Gloss-it White Fast Cut or Yellow Light cut foam pad and Extreme cut or Evolution Cut. Working small areas with overlapping motion work polish using firm pressure until product is no longer visible. This should enable you to correct around 80% of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. Any remaining defects should then be partially hidden and the overall finish refined with Evolution Polish in conjunction with Gloss-it Red 100ppi red foam sponge. Working small areas at a time using light pressure should enable you to remove any residual defects and maximize the gloss in just a single attempt per panel. If heavier glazing is required, then recourse can be made to applying multiple coats of Gloss Finish instead of Evolution Polish, although the former is harder to work with than the latter. You should be aware from the outset that although this method will produce excellent results, it will require a substantial amount of hard work!
3.8. My car has soft paint, and I want to polish it using a dual action machine polisher to remove obvious sub-surface defects. What products and pads are best suited to this task?
To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend a single stage process using Evolution Polish in conjunction with Gloss-it Blue Polishing Pad and or Gloss-it Red Ultra Fine 100ppi foam (5.75 pads on a 5 Evo inch flexible backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 3.75 inch spot pads on a 3 Evo inch flexible backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light to moderate pressure should enable you able to correct around 95% of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. To get an even higher level of correction, or to tackle any remaining deeper defects, you could switch to Gloss-it Evolution Cut Or One Step Machine Polish in conjunction with Gloss-it Green Foam polishing Pad or Yellow Light Cut foam pad (5.75 inch pads on a 5 inch Evo flexible backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 3 inch spot pads on a 3 inch flexible backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). This combination offers more cutting power, but should be used sparingly, as the rate of paint removal increases significantly. If you decide to use Evolution Cut, we recommend following up with Gloss-it Evolution Polish in conjunction with Gloss-it Polishing Pads (5.75 inch pads on a 5 inch Evo flexible backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 3 inch spot pads on a 3 Evo inch flexible backing plate for smaller more awkward areas) in order to refine the finish. Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light pressure should enable you to produce an ultra-sharp high gloss finish, which you should then protect using Gloss Finish LSP or Concorso. Please Visit glossitonline.com to download the Gloss-it Dual action polishing Guide.
Note: (For hot and humid climates using Gloss-it EVP Pad Prime and or Gloss Enhancer QD will extend the amount of polishing time to fully allow the cutting polishes to break down and remove defects.)
Sometimes depending on the paint imperfections the proceeding step will need to be repeated to accomplish the level of desired paint correction. You should be aware from the outset that although this method will produce excellent results, it will require a substantial amount of hard work!
3.9. My car has intermediate paint, and I want to polish it using a dual action machine polisher to remove obvious sub-surface defects.
To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend a single stage process using One Step Machine Gloss or Evolution cut in conjunction with Gloss-it Yellow light cut foam pad or Green Polishing Foam pad. (5.75 pads on a 5 Evo inch flexible backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 3.75 inch spot pads on a 3 Evo inch flexible backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light to moderate pressure should enable you able to correct around 95% of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. To get an even higher level of correction, or to tackle any remaining deeper defects, you could switch to Gloss-it Extreme Cut in conjunction with Gloss-it Fast Cut compounding Pad or Yellow Light Cut foam pad (5.75 inch pads on a 5 inch Evo flexible backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 3 inch spot pads on a 3 Evo inch flexible backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). This combination offers more cutting power, but should be used sparingly, as the rate of paint removal increases significantly. If you decide to use Extreme cut, we recommend following up with Gloss-it Evolution Polish in conjunction with Gloss-it Green or Blue Polishing Pads (5.75 inch pads on a 5 inch Evo flexible backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 3 inch spot pads on a 3 Evo inch flexible backing plate for smaller more awkward areas) in order to refine the finish. Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light pressure should enable you to produce an ultra-sharp high gloss finish, which you should then protect using Gloss Finish LSP or Concorso. Please Visit www.glossitonline.com to download the Gloss-it Dual action polishing Guide.
Note: (For hot and humid climates using Gloss-it EVP Pad Prime and or Gloss Enhancer QD will extend the amount of polishing time to fully allow the cutting polishes to break down and remove defects.)
Sometimes depending on the paint imperfections the proceeding step will need to be repeated to accomplish the level of desired paint correction. You should be aware from the outset that although this method will produce excellent results, it will require a substantial amount of hard work
3.10. My car has hard paint, and I want to polish it using a dual action machine polisher to remove obvious sub-surface defects. What products and pads are best suited to this task?
To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend a single stage process using Extreme Cut or One Step Machine Gloss in conjunction with Gloss-it White Fast Cut Foam pad or Yellow Light Cutting Foam pad. (5.75 pads on a 5 Evo inch flexible backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 3.75 inch spot pads on a 3 Evo inch flexible backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light to moderate pressure should enable you able to correct around 95% of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. To get an even higher level of correction, or to tackle any remaining deeper defects, you could switch to Gloss-it Extreme Cut in conjunction with Gloss-it Lambs wool pad followed again with Fast Cut white foam and Extreme cut (5.75 inch pads on a 5 inch Evo flexible backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 3 inch spot pads on a 3 Evo inch flexible backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). This combination offers more cutting power, but should be used sparingly, as the rate of paint removal increases significantly. If you decide to use Extreme cut, we recommend following up with Gloss-it One Step Machine Gloss or Evolution Polish in conjunction with Gloss-it Green or Blue Polishing Pads (5.75 inch pads on a 5 inch Evo flexible backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 3 inch spot pads on a 3 Evo inch flexible backing plate for smaller more awkward areas) in order to refine the finish. Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light pressure should enable you to produce an ultra-sharp high gloss finish, which you should then protect using Gloss Finish LSP or Concorso Gloss. Please Visit www.glossitonline.com to download the Gloss-it Dual action polishing Guide.
Note: (For hot and humid climates using Gloss-it EVP Pad Prime and or Gloss Enhancer QD will extend the amount of polishing time to fully allow the cutting polishes to break down and remove defects.)
Sometimes depending on the paint imperfections the proceeding step will need to be repeated to accomplish the level of desired paint correction. You should be aware from the outset that although this method will produce excellent results, it will require a substantial amount of hard work!
3.11. After polishing my paint using a dual action machine polisher, I can now see a feint pattern on some of the panels that looks like a mass of very tightly defined swirl marks. Have I done something wrong?
Such a pattern is most likely micro-marring, which is the technical term for fresh sub-surface defects inflicted during the polishing process as unbroken down abrasive particles are continually moved around at the interface between the pad and the paint, leaving a feint pattern of very tightly defined swirl marks. Micromarring is typically caused in one of two ways. Firstly, it can result from using an overly aggressive abrasive for the paint type being worked on; if the surface resistance of the paint is insufficient to enable abrasive particles to fracture and breakdown properly, they will simply be moved around at the interface between the pad and the paint, causing fresh defects. However, if you have read up on your likely paint type and followed our advice concerning polish selection, then it is unlikely that the aggressive of the abrasive will be the problem. Secondly, it can result from a build-up of spent polish residue on the surface of the pad; if spent polish residue is allowed to accumulate as you work your way around the car, it will eventually form a gummy layer on the surface of the pad that will reduce the efficiency of particulate breakdown at the interface between the pad and the paint, meaning that more and more abrasive particles will simply be moved around at the interface between the pad and the paint, causing fresh defects. This problem catches out many novices, but can be avoided by ensuring that spent polish residue on the face of the pad is brushed off regularly using a small stiff brush (we recommend the Gloss-it Detailing Brush for this task) and that pads are changed as soon as they become saturated and can no longer be brushed clean.
3.12. I am about to take delivery of a brand new car. Before I protect the paint, do I need to polish it?
Although it is not unreasonable to assume that the paint on a brand new car will be in perfect condition, the reality is that many brand new cars are delivered with minor sub-surface defects already present in the paint. Such defects typically comprise either light wash marring caused by the dealer washing the car using inappropriate products and techniques, or feint polishing holograms left over from rapid spot repairs on the production line. The only way to confirm whether such sub-surface defects are present on your new car is to trust your eyes; take delivery of the car, wash it carefully at home and then inspect the paint very carefully either in direct sunlight or using a very bright artificial light source (500W halogen work lights are ideal, as are very bright xenon/luxeon/LED torches). If the paint appears to be defect-free you can proceed straight to adding Gloss-it LSP sealant protection, but if you can see any kind of marring or polishing holograms whatsoever, then we would recommend lightly polishing the paint first with a good quality finishing polish in order to restore it to perfection.
4.1. I want to protect my paint, but I am unsure which wax or sealant to choose. Does the choice of last step product make a big difference to the overall look of the car?
Contrary to what you may read on some detailing forums, in our experience the choice of last step product (a collective term for waxes and sealants) can make a subtle yet significant difference to the overall look of a car. This is because waxes and sealant layers have different physical properties (texture, density, opacity, thickness, etc) and thus reflect and refract light differently; in real terms, natural carnauba waxes tend to produce a softer, warmer, glossier finish, while synthetic sealants tend to produce a sharper, cooler, shinier finish (for more detailed information on these differences, please read our car care guide entitled "How to choose and apply wax or sealant protection"). Therefore, it is possible to tailor the final look of paint depending on what last step product you choose, and some colours are more susceptible to this effect than others. This being the case, a key question arises; how do you know which wax or sealant to choose to produce the best possible finish on a particular colour?
The answer to this question can only really be provided by real world hands-on experience of protecting many different colored paints using many different commercially available waxes and sealants. Indeed, this is exactly how we have acquired our own in-depth knowledge of last step products and the results they give on various popular paint colors, and we are happy to share our experience so that our customers may benefit and achieve the best possible results without wasting time and money through trial and error. Accordingly, what follows below is a series of recommendations on which last step product(s) you should use to produce the best possible finish on various popular paint colors. These recommendations are based entirely on our own professional experience, and assume that the paint in each case has been washed, cleansed and polished to perfection.
4.2. What is the best last step product to use on solid white and light metallic/pearlescent colors?
Many people find it difficult to achieve an excellent finish on solid white and light metallic/pearlescent colors, no matter how well they prepare their paint. This is because the lightness of tone precludes a high degree of reflectivity, and thus makes it hard to achieve a finish with any real clarity and depth. Furthermore, this lack of reflectivity can also limit how wet the paint looks, as fewer highlights are shown up in the finish. However, these problems can be largely overcome by choosing a Gloss-it synthetic sealant like the Gloss Finish instead of a natural carnauba wax as the last step product. This is because Gloss-it contains a unique proprietary Gloss-it polymer that will cross-link to form an exceptionally smooth, highly dense surface layer that reflects light far more efficiently than a microscopically rougher, less dense natural carnauba wax coating, and this can add a significant amount of wetness to the appearance of the paint, as more highlights are shown up in the finish. Moreover, the same smoothing and filling properties also minimize any scattering of light caused by micro-structures in the surface of the paint, meaning that reflections are afforded greater clarity and depth, and that metallic and pearlescent flakes receive more transmitted light and thus appear to stand out more from the base color (a phenomenon commonly known as flake pop).
Gloss-it Gloss Finish final finish or commonly referred to as LSP synthetic sealant give the look of the best carnauba wax but will also offer great durability. Our sealants offer superior durability and optics for optimal results on solid white and light metallic/pearlescent colors. This is because it delivers an incredible level of reflectivity characterized by amazing clarity and depth, and makes metallic and pearlescent flakes stand out from the base color more than any other product we have used. Indeed, on some light metallic colors we have worked on, it has literally made the flake appear to explode out of the surface of the paint when viewed in direct sunlight. Further benefits afforded by the Evolution Polish, Gloss Finish, Gloss Activator and include terrific ease of use, even in cold and damp conditions, and exceptional durability, with a single application of the three component system typically lasting for around Six months on a daily driver, although this can be extended almost indefinitely if used in conjunction with Gloss Enhancer quick detailer which contains 5% of the unique polymer in gloss finish.
4.3. What is the best last step product to use on solid mid-tone colors?
Many people find it relatively easy to achieve a soft, warm, glossy finish on solid mid-stone colors like reds and yellows, and this can be explained as much by the characteristics of the paint as by the choice of last step product used. This is because the basecoat layer in such color systems is usually twice as thick as in lighter and darker systems respectively, and also comprises light absorbing pigments that serve to minimize reflectivity and thus enhance color intensity. It is possible to counter this effect to some extent by choosing a synthetic sealant instead of a natural carnauba wax as the last step product, and in many cases this will enhance reflectivity significantly, but unfortunately usually at the expense of color intensity and gloss. In our opinion, it is better to work with the characteristics of the paint rather than against them, and for this reason we recommend using Concorso Gloss as the last step product on solid mid-tone colors. This is because the water base Gloss-it polymers enhance the light that reflects of the surface thus scatter a greater proportion of incoming light, meaning that reflections are afforded less clarity and depth, and that color intensity is enhanced (a phenomenon commonly known as jetting). In real terms, this translates to the paint taking on a much softer, warmer, glossier appearance.
Out of the various LSP we sale, we favor the Concorso Gloss for optimal results on solid mid-tone colors. This is because it delivers an incredible amount of jetting that makes solid mid-tone colors literally look like they are about to pop in front of you; no other product we have used makes such colors look as rich and intense. Further benefits afforded by the Final Gloss-it Final LSP´s.
4.4. What is the best last step product to use on solid dark and metallic/pearlescent colors?
Solid dark and metallic/pearlescent colors are undisputedly harder to maintain to a high standard than lighter colors, they do offer the luxury of more choices when it comes to choosing last step products to tailor the final look of the paint. This is because the intense color depth gives a very high degree of reflectivity, which not only makes it far easier to achieve a finish with much greater clarity and depth, but also enhances how wet the paint looks, as more highlights are shown up. Consequently, it is not difficult to achieve an excellent finish on such colors, and it is quite straightforward to tailor the look of the final finish by choosing last step products that significantly enhance either reflectivity or gloss. By doing the former with a synthetic sealant you can produce a sharper, cooler, shinier finish This is because Gloss sealant polymer chains tend to cross-link to form an exceptionally smooth, highly dense surface layer that transmits light very efficiently and maximizes reflectivity, while natural carnauba wax coatings tend to comprise a microscopically rougher, less dense surface layer that scatters more incoming light and maximizes color intensity and gloss.
One way to give the dark color or metallic/pearlescent colors a mark improvement and really make the paint look like its sitting in a wet pool of paint is to apply multiple layers of the Gloss Finish and or Concorso Gloss. Start by using a soft blue finishing or ultra finishing pad and a dual action polisher with the speed at 4 working the product into the finish in conjunction with spraying the Gloss Enhancer into the paint finish lowering the speed down to 2. As the product becomes no longer visible add one more light coat of Concorso Gloss by hand allow to dry for 15 minutes then remove with Gloss-it Ultra plush towel. This is the ultimate finish with unparallel jetting and gloss!
4.5. What is the best last step product to use on solid dark colours?
Solid dark colours are undisputedly harder to maintain to a high standard than lighter colours, they do offer the luxury of more choices when it comes to choosing last step products to tailor the final look of the paint. This is because the intense colour depth gives a very high degree of reflectivity, which not only makes it far easier to achieve a finish with much greater clarity and depth, but also enhances how wet the paint looks, as more highlights are shown up. Consequently, it is not difficult to achieve an excellent finish on such colours, and it is quite straightforward to tailor the look of the final finish by choosing last step products that significantly enhance either reflectivity or gloss. By doing the former with a synthetic sealant you can produce a sharper, cooler, shinier finish, while by doing the latter with a high quality natural carnauba wax you can produce a softer, warmer, glossier finish. This is because sealant polymer chains tend to cross-link to form an exceptionally smooth, highly dense surface layer that transmits light very efficiently and maximises reflectivity, while natural carnauba wax coatings tend to comprise a microscopically rougher, less dense surface layer that scatters more incoming light and maximises colour intensity and gloss.
If maximising reflectivity and producing the sharpest possible looking finish on a dark solid colour is your ultimate goal, we recommend choosing the Werkstat Acrylic Kit as your step product. This is because it delivers an incredible level of reflectivity characterised by amazing clarity and depth, and makes solid dark colours look razor sharp. However, this high degree of reflectivity and sharpness can be counter-productive in terms of colour intensity and gloss, and can leave some dark solid colours looking somewhat cold and sterile. Thus, it is not a finish that will suit all tastes. In contrast, if maximising colour intensity and gloss on a dark solid colour is your ultimate goal, we recommend choosing Concorso Gloss as your last step product. This is because it delivers an incredible amount of jetting that makes solid dark colours literally look like they are about to pop in front of you; no other product we have used makes such colours look as rich and intense. Further benefits afforded by Concorso Gloss include terrific ease of use and excellent durability, with a single application typically lasting for around three months. If neither of the above options appeal, and you would rather produce a more balanced looking finish, we recommend choosing Gloss Finish Paint Protection, as it delivers an intense wet looking shine with excellent reflectivity and gloss.
4.6. What is the best last step product to use on dark metallic/pearlescent colours?
If there is an optimal colour group to work with in the world of car care, then dark metallic/pearlescent colours has to be it. Not only do such colours easily yield highly reflective, incredibly wet looking finishes with terrific clarity and depth, but they are also fairly forgiving and far easier to maintain than solid dark colours. Unsurprisingly, it is not difficult to achieve an excellent finish on such colours, and most last step products will produce good results. However, we believe it is always better to work with the characteristics of the paint rather than against them, and for this reason we recommend using a synthetic sealant basecoat topped with natural carnauba wax layers as the protective system on dark metallic/pearlescent colours. This is because the sealant basecoat cross-links to form an exceptionally smooth, highly dense surface layer that enhances reflectivity and flake pop, while the subsequent layers of Concorso maximise colour intensity and gloss. The overall effect of this two stage approach is to produce a beautifully balanced finish that enhances the look of the metallic/pearlescent flake whilst simultaneously jetting the base colour. In our opinion, there is little point paying extra for a metallic/pearlescent colour unless you are going to properly show it off in this way!
Our favourite sealant and wax combination for producing optimal results on dark metallic/pearlescent colours is a basecoat of Gloss Finish All Finish Paint Protection topped with multiple coats of Concorso. Gloss Finish Paint Protection delivers an intense wet looking shine with excellent reflectivity, and sharpens up the look of metallic/pearlescent colours brilliantly. Further benefits afforded by Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection include terrific ease of use and excellent durability, which makes it ideal for use as a basecoat for subsequent layers of Concorso. The addition of multiple layers of Concorso over a basecoat of Gloss Finish Paint Protection adds a rippling liquidity and intense vibrancy to dark metallic/pearlescent colours that is on par with the finish produced by bespoke high-end waxes costing thousands of pounds; it is a deeply impressive product that has few, if any, serious rivals at the same price point. If your budget is too small to stretch to the Gloss LSP combination outlined above, then an excellent second choice is a basecoat of One Step Machine Gloss. This duo delivers a rich, warm looking finish with a high level of gloss and no muting of the metallic/pearlescent flake, and offers excellent value for money.
4.7. What can I use to add extra protection against stone chips?
No last step products (waxes or sealants) that we know of offer any protection whatsoever against stone chips; the final thickness of the protective coating (even when heavily layered) is always much less than a micron thick, and high speed impacts with stones and other road debris penetrate this easily. Your only option for added protection against such damage is to have a clear film covering such as Armourfend or Ventureshield fitted. These vinyl films are several hundred microns thick and protect against stone chip damage fairly well, but their aesthetic qualities are typically poor in terms of reflectivity and clarity, and they are expensive to fit. Our solution has always been to allow stone chips to accumulate over time and have the affected panels resprayed every 18-24 months. This is no more costly than having a clear film fitted, and looks far nicer in terms of the aesthetics of the finish.
7.1 How and what can I use to safely clean and maintain my wheel and tires.
7.1 The key to clean wheels is of course upkeep and maintenance. Gloss-it has developed a non caustic wheel cleaner that will not stain or etch your wheel like most other common wheel cleaners on the market.
If your wheels have not been properly maintained and are needing some care Gloss-it has provide some proven techniques and tools for maintaining a great looking wheel and tire.
First you want to use a safe non-caustic wheel gel to help deep clean the layer of brake dust and road grime that has attached to the outer and inner lip and barrel of the wheel. Gloss It Signature Tire Gel was formulated for just this task. This is a non-caustic wheel gel that you can spray on any type of wheel including raw aluminum or painted wheels without any potential damage.
We recommend that you spray the wheel prior to washing your car; so the splatter from the wheel cleaning will not upset your freshly washed painted surfaces.
You want to lightly mist the outer area and coat the inner barrel really well and let this sit for about from one to two minutes.
Next using a Gloss-it boar hair wheel brush and or soft tip brush different type of wheel brushes, scrub the inner barrel to agitate
and clean the caked on break dust and road grime. This might take a few passes to make a difference, every vehicle is different and some brakes dust more than others. Once you have the inner barrels nice and shinny, it's time to move to the outer rim area.
Again using different Gloss-it Wheel brushes, clean the outer area of the wheel. Be sure on 3-piece and wheels that have rivets that you use a brush or tool to properly clean the rivet area. Also using a specialized brush you can remove the embedded dirt and grime around the lug nuts.
Next is an important step and is usually skipped. You need to clean the tires sidewall area. Spray the Gloss-It Wheel Gel all around the tire and using a stiff bristle brush scrub the tire to remove any older tire shine gel or dirt and grime that might have embedded into the groves and letters of the tire. (This step is important to ensure the Signature tire gloss will properly bond.)
Next is a little trick that I use. Grab a Gloss-it wash mitt ( Yellow side) and clean the inner barrels and behind the spokes and you will see that you can get it even cleaner than with just the brush method.
Note: Some vehicles wheels and brakes will have a mesh or slotted face; that are hard to clean or reach.
For these specific vehicles; you will need roll your vehicle forward then backwards so you can clean behind the brake caliper and top of the rim. If you fail to do this you will end up with a very shinny wheel and random areas with brake dust.
Also since you are in the area, be sure to spray the Wheel Gel into the painted brake caliper and using the Gloss-it soft tip brush to properly clean the caliper.
After you have rinsed the wheel completely it's time to stand back and admire the hard work you just went thru.
Once rim is dry and clean apply Signature Tire Gloss or T.R.V to enhance that new tire look! To remove excess tire protectant and soap film on rim apply Gloss Enhancer Quick Detailer to protect and maintain the wheel from future heavy grime and brake dust build up.
Note: We recommend a 2-bucket system. Always use one bucket for the wheels, tires and fender wells and the other bucket for the vehicle painted surfaces. This will keep your vehicles paint from being scratched and marred due to contamination from the dirty wheel water.
For more info and tips please visit www.glossitonline.com
